Hà Nội’s Ancient Quarter And Old Streets (Part II)

The French occupied Hà Nội in 1883, and by 1886, a plan of the new Hà Nội was developed by the occupying government. At first, the area around Sword Lake was reconstructed. Today, the house at No. 3 Hàng Khay Street still bears the number of the year 1886. This reconstruction was followed by the destruction of the old citadel and the filling of the To Lich River and many ponds (Ỉ 894-1896).

Hà Nội’s Ancient Quarter And Old Streets

The ancient streets were “straightened” and the infrastructure was improved. Many of the old houses were reconstructed but their original architectural styles were kept. A number of new homes were built in Western architectural style, with two or three storeys, and European ornament.

As a result, the “Western” quarters emerged, one to the south of the Lake of the Restored Sword, one around the area where the old citadel had stood, and one in the Concession Area which was built earlier.
The Concession Area is a rectangle whose longer sides are Bạch Đằng Road, Lê Thánh Tông and Trần Thánh Tông Streets, and shorter sides are Tràng Tiền and Nguyễn Huy Tự Streets. The area was originally the naval base of the ancient Hà Nội province.

Hà Nội’s Ancient Quarter And Old Streets (Part II)

In August 1875, it was conceded to the French Army to be built into military barracks, villas and hospitals, which were considered “orthodox” architectural projects built in curved shape with black-stone roofs, and surrounded by peripheral corridors. The villa of the French Army’s Chief of Staff (now the Ministry of Defence’s Guest House) still bears the construction date “1874-1877”. The Lanessan Hospital (now the Vietnam Military Hospital 108 and the Việt Nam-Soviet Hospital) was built between 1892 and 1893.

The old citadel area consists of Phan Đình Phùng, Hùng Vương, Hoàng Diệu, Điện Biên Phủ,Lê Hồng Phong, Chu Văn An, and Trần Phú Streets. As the ground preparation work here was quickly done, the construction was also completed in a short time. This area is notable for its long and wide tree-lined boulevards with wide pavements. The imposing and majestic Palace of the Indochinese Governor General (now the Presidential Palace) was built from 1900 to 1902. It should be noted that the houses there have a slope roof and colorful and detailed ornaments at the doors and roof. They were originally owned by the residents from the northern part of France.

The architecture of this area resembles that of Northern France.

The area to the south of Restored Sword Lake is a rectangle bordered by Tràng Thi - Tràng Tiền, and Trần Hưng Đạo Streets (longer sides), Phan Bội Châu and Phan Chu Trinh Streets (shorter side). This area was built at the same time as the old citadel quarter, but it was completed later because many surrounding villages had to be dis-located for the project. The Great Opera House, which stands on the edge of this area, was constructed in 1902-1911. Tràng Tiền Street was mainly inhabited by French businessmen and some Chinese.

A number of large offices such as the Yunnan Railways Company (now the office of the Confederation of Trade Unions) situated at the intersection of Trần Hưng Đạo and Quán Sứ Streets were built in 1902; the National University in Lê Thánh Tông Street in 1904; and the Palace of the French Resident Superior (now the Government Guest House at the end of Ngô Quyền Street) in 1919.

In this quarter, the majority of buildings are villas with flat roofs and many doors, which are typical of the architecture of South France.

In the three above quarters, in the 1920’s and 1930’s there appeared constructions whose architec-tural style had both Western and Oriental features. Some have high aesthetic value like the Finot Museum (now the Museum of History) built in 1929- 1932, the Finance Service (now Ministry of Foreign Affaừs) in 1929-1931, Pasteur Institute in 1930, the great hall of Hanoi National University fin Lê Thánh Tons Street; in 1928, etc. The three above areas make up the old street quarter and a treasure of Hà Nội.

Hà Nội’s Ancient Quarter And Old Streets (Part I)

Since 1954, many new residential quarters have been built in the inner part of Hà Nội: Nguvễn Công Trứ, Kim Liên, Trung Tự, Kim Giang, Thanh Xuân, Nghĩa Đô, Thủ Lệ, Ngọc Khánh, Giảng Võ, I lào Nam, Thành Công, Yên Lãng, Vĩnh Hồ, Bách Khoa, Trương Định, etc.
However, these new buildings are different from the ancient quarter and the old streets in the center of Hà Nội, the pride of Hanoians.
Ancient Quarter

Hà Nội and Hội An are the only cities in Việt Nam that still keep their ancient quarters. The cur-rent ancient quarter in Hà Nội has an appearance that dates back to the end of the 19th century because climate, war and other factors had eroded many architectural peculiarities of the previous times. However, according to historical sources, this ancient quarter was the heart of the Thang Long Capital when it was established a thousand years ago.

Hà Nội’s ancient quarter has the shape of an isosceles triangle with its top being Hàng Than Street; its east side is the Red River’s dyke, the west side is Hàng Cót, Hàng Điếu and Hàng Da Streets, and its base is Hàng Bông, Hàng Gai and Cầu Gỗ Streets. Prior to the French occupation, this ancient section was laid out in an order similar to a chess board and with its streets bearing the names of the goods manufactured there, for instance, Hàng Đường (Sugar) Street, Hàng Bạc (Silver) Street, Hàng Bồ (Bamboo Basket) Street, etc. All the hous-es in this section of the City have the same shape, which are called “tube houses”.

Hanoi French Quarter

They have naưovv widths and deep lengths, and sometimes open into other lanes or streets. The houses have similar dispositions, with the front rooms serving as the places where goods are manufactured or sold. Next to it is a small open courtyard to let in light (on the courtyard there are usually ornamental water pools with goldfish, miniature decorative mountains, ornamental plants and flowers). Behind this yard comes one back rooms used as bed room and dining room. Most of these houses have only one storey, roofed with small tiles. Two side walls (gables) grow higher than the roof. At the front side of the roof are two graceful pillars. At some houses, a low second storey is added sometimes with a very small win-dow. (In the past, common people were not allowed to look at the King’s face, especially looking down-ward, when the King traveled along the street).

Hà Nội’s Ancient Quarter And Old Streets (Part I)

“Tube houses” in Hà Nội, thus, are small and simple. They can be used as “factories” for making handicraft products, shops and living rooms. The ancient quarter is always crowded and bustling. The houses stand side by side, supporting one another and thus creating the attractiveness of the quarter.

Scattered among the ancient “tube houses” are a number of pagodas, temples and other places of worship. They were primarily the halls of worship of the past villages and guilds. The temple at No. 38 Hàng Đường Street was that of Đức Môn village through which Hàng Đường Street ran; Huyền Thiên Pagoda at No.54 Hàng Khoai belonged to the village with the same name which is now around Hàng Khoai Street.

These constructions testify to the origins of the first inhabitants, a considerable number of whom came from other provinces. Hoa Lộc Temple, at No.90 Hàng Đào Street, was founded by the people from Đan Loan dying village, Hải Dương province; Tú Đình Thị Temple, at No. 2 A Yên Thái Lane, was built by the people from Quất Động embroidery village, Hà Tây province. On the other hand, the existence of these pagodas and temples attests to the spiritual life of the old Hanoians, who always sought to integrate themselves into the spiritual world of the nation. The ancient quarter is where the present and the past intermingle to create its attractiveness.

Today, after many historical ups and downs, Ha Noi’s ancient quarter remains virtually unchanged from their original look. We can still see there many small “tube houses”, crowded streets, curved- roofed pagodas and temples and rows of green trees. All of these are “souvenirs” of the past for the generations to come to discover.

Hà Nội authority is currently studying some projects to protect and promote this treasure of the City.

Vietnam National Library

Situated on Tràng Thi Street, it is the country’s largest library which was founded in 1919. At first, it was named after Pierce Pasquier, an Indochinese Governor General. In its heyday in 1939, the Pierre Pasquier Library contained 92,163 books, 20% of which were in Vietnamese.

Vietnam National Library

In 1954, after our victory over France, the library Was transformed into the Central Library. The Remaining books together with those brought from the government’s library in Việt Bắc amounted to 180,000.
On 26 June 1957, the Central Library was for-mally renamed the Việt Nam National Library. It also served as the nation’s deposit store of books published domestically. For over the past four decades, new domestic and foreign publications have been continuously added to the Vietnam National Library. It currently has over one million books and seven thousand newspapers and magazines, both in Vietnamese and foreign languages. Further, all theses of Vietnamese Ph.D graduates and scientists, completed in Việt Nam or abroad, are also kept in the library.

The Viet Nam National Library is one of Việt Nam’s cultural centers that have the most contact with inter-national counterparts. It regularly exchanges books and periodicals with more than 300 libraries and major scientific institutions in about 100 foreign countries. It is a member of the International Federation of Library and Institutions (IFLA). Through international exchanges cooperation, the library has been able to acquire hundreds of thousands of valuable books and periodicals in foreign languages and on various domains.
The library has been equipped with reading rooms, and bookshelves and other facilities, which are very convenient for readers. At present, it has got a large lawn under age-old green trees where readers may have a rest and talk with one another.

the Ha Noi Library

The library regularly holds lecture on various aspects of life, the economy, culture, history, science, and technology for the interested public. Speakers often include famous scientists, scholars, writers and artists. The library also organizes seminars on famous figures and many issues.

The Vietnam National Library gives much attention to equipping the nationwide library system with management skills.
Other major libraries in Hà Nội include the Science and Technology Library, the Vietnam Social Sciences Library (Lý Thường Kiệt Street), the Vietnam Army Library (Lý Nam Đế Street), the Ha Noi Library (47 Bà Triệu Street), and lots of others at lower levels.

Hà Nội Children’s Cultural Palace

It is located where, under French rule, there were two establishments: to the north was a kindergarten where festivals for adults such as beauty contests and periodical markets, etc. were often held; and to the south was the French club.

After the Vietnamese Government took over the capital, the two buildings were turned into the Young Pioneers’ Club, where children could enjoy entertainments. In 1973, with assistance from Czechoslovakia, the old club was tom down to give place to the Children’s Palace.

The palace, which was inaugurated on 19th February 1977, is located on Lý Thái Tổ Street and covers over 10,000 m2. At the center is one six- storey building. It has got an area of 1,875 m2 for use and nearly 100 rooms for studying and other activities. Each room has got modern equipment for specific purposes: machines and models for scientific and technical research; soundproof rooms and musical instruments for music performances; a dancing room of 100 m2.

Hà Nội Children’s Cultural Palace

The Technical Department of the Palace is well-equipped for drawing, sculpture, paper cutting, serigraphy, metal forging, housewifery, lace-weaving, embroidery, knitting, photography, etc. The Sports and Gymnastic Department has such games as table tennis, badminton, chess, national martial arts, karate, gun shooting, parachuting, etc. There is also a library with 60,000 books and a cinema of astronomical films.

On the left of the central building, there is a building called Khăn Quàng Đỏ (Red Scarf) Cinema. The cinema covers an area of 1,500m2 and has 520 seats. On the left of the building is another building with the “traditional house” of the Young Pioneers’ Union and other administrative department. In particular, one room of this building witnessed President Ho Chi Minh signing the Preliminary Agreement on 6th March 1946 with the French Agreement on 6th March 1946 with the French Government. The entire palace can seat 5,000 children at a time. This is a place to foster child talents in science and arts for the Capital.

Hà Nội Friendship Cultural Palace

It is situated on Trần Hưng Đạo Street, overlooking the May 1 Square, on the site that was originally the ground of the Trade Fair Center for Indochinese natural resources and products. This two-storey, 100mx25m building was constructed by the French Administration in 1902. In 1943, it was destroyed by us bombers attacking Japanese troops.

After taking over Hà Nội in 1954, the Vietnamese Government built on this site an open theatre, called People’s Theatre, designed for the general public.

Following Việt Nam’s reunification in 1975 the Central Council of the Soviet Union Trade Union decided to present Việt Nam’s Trade Union with a cultural palace for workers. The project was completed on the site of the former People’s Theatre on 1st September 1985, and it was named the Việt-Xô Friendship Cultural Palace for Laborers. Today the palace serves various cultural, scientific, artistic, sports and gymnastic activities of Hà Nội’s laborers.

Hà Nội Friendship Cultural Palace

The palace has a total area of 3.2 ha, including three main buildings: the performance building, the study building, and the technical building. The four-storeyed performance building, 26m high, and 96m long, has four floors facing Trần Hưng Đạo Street. It has got a large stage and two big conference halls. The bigger hall has 1,256 seats and the smaller, 375. 

According to the initial design, four-language interpreting devices may be installed in these halls. Also in this building, there are two large halls beautifully decorated. The hall on the 1 st floor is adorned with a picture of Saint Giong, 4.5m high and 18m wide, and that on the 2nd floor 

has a set of bronze artwork boards on four seasons.

Surrounding the performance building is a corridor 6m wide and a row of 12m tall pillars supporting the building’s roof. At the backside of this building is the three-storey study building, which houses a library, lecture hall and an observatory. Connecting the two buildings is the technical building. The entire Palace has 120 rooms, 20 staircases and two lifts.

The Palace houses up to 3p clubs, such as clubs of electronics, bio-chemistry, mechanics, lovers of Hà Nội, etc.

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Vietnam Museum Of Ethnology

The Viet Nam Museum of Ethnology both a scientific organization and a cultural center with the following functions: to conduct scientific studies about ethnicities in Việt Nam; to collect, classify, preserve, restore, display the historical and cultural values of the ethnicities; to provide ethnological documents; and to train personnel for various kinds of ethnology museums.

The museum was inaugurated in November 1997. It covers an area of 3ha on Nguyễn Văn Huyên Street, in Cầu Giấy district. It has two parts: indoor and outdoor. The former has got an exhibition section, a research sections, a great hall, etc. The latter will be completed soon.

Vietnam Museum Of Ethnology

The museum has got a valuable collection of 10,000 objects, nearly 15,000 photographs, 100 cassette and video records about the 54 ethnicities of Việt Nam. Visitors can get to know and do research on the ethnicities, the diversified cultural identity of each ethnicity, each region as well as evil the common traditional values of these ethnic groups.

Vietnam Museum Of Ethnology

The objects include not only valuable antiques but also ordinary tools and utensils of people such as knives, back baskets, loin-cloths, flutes, pipes, mats, etc. They reflect different aspects of the material and spiritual life of the ethnicities. There are 54 collections for 54 ethnicities which are categorized by utility: farming tools, fishing tools, weapons, household utensils, musical instruments, etc. There are also separate sections for objects related to religious beliefs, weddings, funerals, and other spiritual, social activities.

In the exhibit section, most of the space is reserved for regular exhibitions and the rest for temporary displays on certain themes. At the moment, the regular exhibit section is divided into nine major areas.

The 1st area: General introduction

The first theme is “Việt Nam: periods of history and culture”. This area gives visitors information about Vietnamese history, the integration of ethnicities and civilizations into the entity of Việt Nam.
There is a large colored map showing the distribution of the ethnicities in Việt Nam by geographical location and language family. Three cross sections in the worth, the center and the south are also shown to describe the altitude of the residential areas of each ethnic.

Vietnam Museum Of Ethnology

The 2nd area: The Việt (Kinh)

There are 11 showcases representing the traditional culture of the Việt with such subjects as water puppetry; musical instruments, the cult of Holy Mother; popular toys for children some typical handicrafts including bronze casting, wood carving, lacquer, Đông Hồ woodblock printing. Visitors can see several products and production tools of such crafts, The cult of ancestors is typical of Việt culture, in this area, one can see an ancestral altar in a peasant’s house.

Vietnam Museum Of Ethnology

The 3rd area: The Mường, the Thổ and the Chứt.

This area represents the hunting and fruit picking activities of the Chút, the craft of ramie weaving of the Thổ, and hunting, cloth weaving, and daily life and musical instruments of the Mường.
One can also get to know a funeral of the Mường, which, to some extent, represents the latter’s perception of life, death and the universe.

The 4th area: Ethnic groups of the Tày-Thái and Ka-Đai language family.

Visitors can see the typical architecture of the Black Thai’s houses-on-stilts. In the showcases, there are objects representing the culture of the Tày, Thái, Nùng, Sán Chay, Cao Lan - Sán Chỉ, Giấy, Bố Y, Lự. There are showcases on hand writings, the Nùng’s handicrafts, the costumes of some Tày ethnicities such as the Thu Lao, Pa DÍ, etc.

Vietnam Museum Of Ethnology

Colorful costumes of the La Chi, the CỜ Lao, the Pu Péo, and La Ha (belonging to the Ka-Đai language family) are displayed next to the objects symbolizing human sex organs, which are used for dances of the cult of fertility at the festivals of the La Ha, and the trumpet-like musical instrument of the Cờ Lao.

The 5th area: Ethnic groups of the Hmông-Dao and Tibeto-Burmese language families; the Sán Dìu and the Ngái.

There are two groups of showcases in this area. One is for the display of the objects related to the Hmông, the Dao and the Pà Then such as decorations made from bee wax. Wooden household utensils, festival costumes of the Hmông, etc. The other group of showcases is designed for the Sán Dìu, Ngái, Lô Lô, Hà Nhì, La Hủ, Phù Lá, Si La and Cống (women’s attire, hunting tools, daily life utensils and musical instruments).

Vietnam Museum Of Ethnology

The 6th area: Ethnic groups of the Môn-Khmer language family in mountain area.

This area represents the culture of five ethnic groups in the North (Khơ Mú, Mảng, Kháng, Xinh Mun, and ơ Đu) and 15 others in the Trường Sơn Mountain range and the Central Highland (Bru, Vân Kiều, Tà Ôi, Cơ Tu, Hrê, Co, Gié-triêng, Xơ Đăng, Ba Na, Rơ Măm, Brâu, Mnông, Cơ Ho, Mạ, Xtiêng, and Chơ Ro).
These ethnic groups have many different traditions and customs but we can easily identify their common features. In this area, one can see the clothes of Khmer women; daily life tools of the Kháng, the Xinh Mun and the ơ Đu; gourd shells, tools made of tree bark, different kinds of baskets, weaving tools, musical instruments, etc.

The 7th area: Ethnic groups of the Austronesian language family in mountain areas.

There are four ethnicities in this group: Gia Ra, Ê đê, Raglai, and Chu Ru. They share many com-mon characteristics with those of the Môn-Khmer language family. However, they still keep the ocean life-style and follow the matriarchal system. Their material and spiritual life is shown through the stat-ues in tomb houses, grave-abandoning rituals, musical instruments, tools and utensils, etc.

The 8th area: The Chăm, Hoa and Khmer

The Chăm belong to the Austro-polynesian language family; the Hoa, to the Hán language family; and the Khmer, to the Austrasiatic language family. Each ethnicity is introduced on a separate panel. There is another panel showing the architecture of pagodas and towers, and of Hinayana Buddhism. Special aspects of life of these ethnicities are displayed. For the Chăm: their religions, weaving craft, pottery, transport with ox-drawn-carts; for the Hoa: their wedding ceremonies, unicorn dance; for the Khmer: their religions, script, cloth and silk dying, farming tools, etc. These ethnic groups, together with Việt people, play an important role in the development of the southern coastal of Central V iệt Nam and the South of Viet Nam.

The 9th area: Interrelation between ethnicities

All ethnicities have been and are witnessing changes in their cultures. Given the current trend of expanding relationships and boosting socioeconomic development among themselves, exchanges between cultures will be promoted. In this process, market plays an essential role among the influential factors. This area describes a market day in the Northern mountain region.

                                                             Hà Nội Past and Present Nguyen Vinh Phuc - The Gioi Publishers

Vietnam Museum Of Fine Arts

Located at No. 66 Nguyễn Thái Học Street, it began receiving visitors on 24th June 1966. Here, scholars can study the evolution of Việt Nam’s architecture, sculpture, and fine arts. In the museum, there are many original works of art as well as reproductions including stone axe blades, statues, jewelry, wooden statues, silk paintings lacquer paintings Đông Hồ and Hàng Trống paintings, Mường skirt belts, Tày brocades, silver and copper bracelets and necklaces. These objects speak of Việt Nam’s civilization, talented artists, and of the optimistic and healthy visions of the Vietnamese. 

Visitors are able to see works of art dating to the Stone and Bronze Ages: stone bracelets, earrings and necklaces, all 2,000 to 3,000 years old; and bronze statues, drums, and jewels. Among the items on exhibit are works spanning from the Lý to the Trần dynasties (seven to eight centuries ago), when Việt Nam’s art reached its peak in architecture and sculpture. There is a ceramic tower with beautiful decorations; a pagoda door carved with the familiar motifs of dragon; large carvings of bodhi trees, people dancing and playing musical instruments; ceramics and terracotta articles with turquoise enamel; and lots of other objects.

Vietnam Museum Of Fine Arts

Works of art produced later still maintain some characteristics of the previous time but also have new features. These new features can be observed in the rooms of exhibits of the Lê, Tây Sơn and Nguyễn dynasties, which include architectural models and drawings, such as those of Tay Phương Pagoda and Dinh Bang Communal House. Sculptural masterpieces include the statue of Quan-yin with one thousand hands and one thousand eyes at But Thap Pagoda, and the statues of Arhats at Tay Phuong Pagoda. Also of interest are the sculptures from the pagodas that depict the simple daily lives of the ancient Vietnamese people. 

The works by Vietnamese artists during French domination all speak of theừ ability to absorb Western techniques and methods of creation while keeping and developing the national identities of Việt Nam. Silk and oil paintings on display are brilliant examples. The works by Tô Ngọc Vân, Nguyễn Phan Chánh and numerous other painters are categorized as valuable relics of Vietnamese art. It should be noted that Vietnamese artists have succeeded in using lacquer in theừ paintings. In the museum, one can see a variety of lacquer paintings by Vietnamese artists. Among the masters, Nguyễn Gia Trí occupies a particular position.

Vietnam Museum Of Fine Arts

The museum gives an impression that Vietnamese art has undergone a “renaissance” since the August Revolution in 1943. The paintings and sculptures made (luring the anti-French and anti- American resistance wars have distinct features in content, themes and style. The evolution of modern Vietnamese art is clearly reflected through the masterpieces of these periods.

The museum regularly holds exhibitions on typical periods of art development or on particular authors, both Vietnamese and foreigners. In the museum, there are big collections such as “Arts of Ethnic Minorities”, “Ancient Wooden Sculptures”, “30 Years of Lacquer Painting”, “Paintings and Statues on President Ho Chi Minh”, “Folk Painting”, etc.

The Việt Nam Museum of Fine Arts is really a treasure worthy of discovery.