Bánh Cuốn (Rolled Cake)

In Ha Noi, bánh cuốn was first made in Thanh Trì, a suburban village. Thanh Trì lies to the south-east of Hà Nội on the bank of the Red River. The inhabitants here are skilled in making the original rolled cake, as thin as paper, as clear as porcelain glaze and having a nice flavor. The flour is soft and elastic. In the past, every morning, Thanh Trì girls brought bánh cuốn to the inner area and sold it in the streets.

They carried a bamboo basket covered with a flat basket on their heads and when customers called them, they would put it down. In it there were a bottle of fish sauce, vinegar, chili, some bowls, and dishes, a dozen or so pairs of chopsticks and layers of bánh cuốn arranged over one another. Each layer of bánh cuốn had been covered with a little fat and fried pieces of onion.

Bánh Cuốn (Rolled Cake)

The huckster slowly took out each layer, rolled it and placed it on a dish to serve her customer. Banh cuon taken with hot sour sauce is really a delicious and popular food. When urban people have more sophisticated tastes, they take bánh cuốn together with giò bò (beef paste), giò lụa (lean pork pie) or chả lợn (fried pork pie). In each way, they can enjoy a special flavor. Though there are now new types of bánh cuốn, that made in Thanh Trì is still flavored by many Hanoians.

Half a century ago, a number of improved bánh cuốn stalls came into being on Ha Noi streets. They still used Thanh Trì bánh cuốn but added fillings of half-lean-half-fat port and fresh chopped shelled shrimp, fragrant mushrooms, and jelly fungus soaked in warm water and cut into small pieces with onions, fish sauce and pepper. All those ingredients are fried then put into the rolled cake which will be steamed before being .served to the customer. In the bowl of prepared fish sauce, some drops of belostomatid essence are added to give the food a flavor.

Today, at bánh cuốn stalls in Ha Noi Old Quarter, the cake. And the fillings inside the cake are made at the same time. Customers have to wait for each dish of cake and enjoy the warm and fragrant smoke, particularly on cold days. Unfortunately, belostomatid species have gradually been subjected to extinction and almost all stalls use chemical belostomatid essence. Nevertheless, the bánh cuốn stall at No. 17 Cha Ca Street still serves customers with the real belostomatid essence.

Chi Lăng Park

Bordered by three roads, Trần Phú, Hoàng Diệu and Điện Biên Phủ, this nice park is named after the Chi Lăng victory over the Ming invaders on 10th October 1427. At Chi Lăng, now in Lạng Sơn province, the Vietnamese army defeated the reserve troops commanded by Liễu Thăng, leading to the liberation of Đông Đô (Hà Nội) two months later.

Chi Lang Park

Chi Lăng Park was originally a lake inside the Ha Noi Citadel (Trần Phú Road was the Citadel’s southern wall). This hike was where soldiers bathed and was called Elephant Lake. Under French domination, the Ha Noi Citadel was destroyed (1894-1897), and Hà Nội was subjected to re-planning. The lake was filled and this park was built. In the comer of the park on Hoàng Diệu Road there was a group of statues.

On the pedestal, two French soldiers were depicted, one pointing his rifle at the flag tower, the other throwing a hand-grenade. At four sides of the pedestal were representatives of the four classes of local society: man-darins, peasants, craftsmen and traders. At the front side was a peasant carrying a plough. For this reason, the park was commonly called “Farming Park”.

In 1985, a 5.2m high statue of Lenin was set up here on a 2.7m granite pedestal.

Bach Thao Park

Bách Thảo Park is located right at the back of President Hồ Chí Minh’s Mausoleum and the Presidential Palace. It covers an area of twenty hectares of land which originally belonged to Khán Xuân ward. In 1890, the French displaced the people of this ward to build a large garden for planting trees and raising animals. The garden was called Jardin botanique but Hanoians used to call it Trại Hàng Hoa (Flower Garden) or Bách Thú Garden (Zoo).

During World War II (1939-1945) the animals grown there gradually died because of lack of care. Finally, the French administration moved the remaining animals to Saigon Zoo.

Bach Thao Park

After the liberation of Hà Nội on the 10th October 1954, the State rebuilt this area and renamed it Bach Thao (Botanical) Park. At the park’s northwest corner, there is an earth mound which is usually called Khán mound or Nùng mound. It is, in fact, Sưa mound because Khán and Nùng mounds no longer exist today. Sưa is a type of hardwood, similar to iron wood.

In the past, sưa trees grew in abundance on this mound. Also on this mound, there is an ancient temple dedicated to Huyền Thiên Hắc Đế, a boy who, according to legend, helped a King of the Lý Dynasty defeat foreign invaders.

Chí Linh Park (Or Indira Gandhi Park)

Surrounded by Đinh Tiên Hoàng, Lê Lai, Lê Thạch and Ngô Quyền Streets, this park was originally part of the compound of an ancient pagoda named Phổ Giác or Tàu in Hậu Lâu village. In 1883, the French colonialists moved this pagoda to the garden of the Institute of Royal Physicians and built the Mayor’s Office, Treasury, Post Office and a park in the former’s place.

In 1886 when Resident General Paul Bert died, the French named this garden after him. A year later, a statue of Paul Bert was set up here followed by a great inauguration ceremony. This statue was placed on a stone pedestal where the present round flower basin stands, looking out to Sword Lake. Behind the statue was an eight-sided house where the military orchestra played every Saturday evening. This statue was removed in 1945.

Lý Thái Tổ

After the August 1945 Revolution, the park was renamed Chí Linh. Chí Linh is a mountain area west of Thanh Hóa province which was the base of the uprising led by Lê Lợi in the 15th century. The park’s name is apparently associated with the Lake of the Restored Sword and the legend of King Lê Lợi returning his sword to the Turtle God.

On the lake’s west bank there is a temple and a statue dedicated to the King. Around the lake, apart from Lê Thái Tổ (Lê Lợi) Street, there are streets named after this King’s generals: Lê Thạch, Lê Lai, Nguyễn Xí and Trần Nguyên Hãn.

In order to strengthen the Indo-Việt Nam friend-ship, since 1984, the park has been named after the late Prime Minister of India, Indira Gandhi.

Hà Nội’s Ancient Quarter And Old Streets (Part I)

Since 1954, many new residential quarters have been built in the inner part of Hà Nội: Nguvễn Công Trứ, Kim Liên, Trung Tự, Kim Giang, Thanh Xuân, Nghĩa Đô, Thủ Lệ, Ngọc Khánh, Giảng Võ, I lào Nam, Thành Công, Yên Lãng, Vĩnh Hồ, Bách Khoa, Trương Định, etc.
However, these new buildings are different from the ancient quarter and the old streets in the center of Hà Nội, the pride of Hanoians.
Ancient Quarter

Hà Nội and Hội An are the only cities in Việt Nam that still keep their ancient quarters. The cur-rent ancient quarter in Hà Nội has an appearance that dates back to the end of the 19th century because climate, war and other factors had eroded many architectural peculiarities of the previous times. However, according to historical sources, this ancient quarter was the heart of the Thang Long Capital when it was established a thousand years ago.

Hà Nội’s ancient quarter has the shape of an isosceles triangle with its top being Hàng Than Street; its east side is the Red River’s dyke, the west side is Hàng Cót, Hàng Điếu and Hàng Da Streets, and its base is Hàng Bông, Hàng Gai and Cầu Gỗ Streets. Prior to the French occupation, this ancient section was laid out in an order similar to a chess board and with its streets bearing the names of the goods manufactured there, for instance, Hàng Đường (Sugar) Street, Hàng Bạc (Silver) Street, Hàng Bồ (Bamboo Basket) Street, etc. All the hous-es in this section of the City have the same shape, which are called “tube houses”.

Hanoi French Quarter

They have naưovv widths and deep lengths, and sometimes open into other lanes or streets. The houses have similar dispositions, with the front rooms serving as the places where goods are manufactured or sold. Next to it is a small open courtyard to let in light (on the courtyard there are usually ornamental water pools with goldfish, miniature decorative mountains, ornamental plants and flowers). Behind this yard comes one back rooms used as bed room and dining room. Most of these houses have only one storey, roofed with small tiles. Two side walls (gables) grow higher than the roof. At the front side of the roof are two graceful pillars. At some houses, a low second storey is added sometimes with a very small win-dow. (In the past, common people were not allowed to look at the King’s face, especially looking down-ward, when the King traveled along the street).

Hà Nội’s Ancient Quarter And Old Streets (Part I)

“Tube houses” in Hà Nội, thus, are small and simple. They can be used as “factories” for making handicraft products, shops and living rooms. The ancient quarter is always crowded and bustling. The houses stand side by side, supporting one another and thus creating the attractiveness of the quarter.

Scattered among the ancient “tube houses” are a number of pagodas, temples and other places of worship. They were primarily the halls of worship of the past villages and guilds. The temple at No. 38 Hàng Đường Street was that of Đức Môn village through which Hàng Đường Street ran; Huyền Thiên Pagoda at No.54 Hàng Khoai belonged to the village with the same name which is now around Hàng Khoai Street.

These constructions testify to the origins of the first inhabitants, a considerable number of whom came from other provinces. Hoa Lộc Temple, at No.90 Hàng Đào Street, was founded by the people from Đan Loan dying village, Hải Dương province; Tú Đình Thị Temple, at No. 2 A Yên Thái Lane, was built by the people from Quất Động embroidery village, Hà Tây province. On the other hand, the existence of these pagodas and temples attests to the spiritual life of the old Hanoians, who always sought to integrate themselves into the spiritual world of the nation. The ancient quarter is where the present and the past intermingle to create its attractiveness.

Today, after many historical ups and downs, Ha Noi’s ancient quarter remains virtually unchanged from their original look. We can still see there many small “tube houses”, crowded streets, curved- roofed pagodas and temples and rows of green trees. All of these are “souvenirs” of the past for the generations to come to discover.

Hà Nội authority is currently studying some projects to protect and promote this treasure of the City.